An insider

An insider's guide to Hay-on-Wye

Julie Smith 24 April 2024

Hay-on-Wye may be small but we think it’s a perfectly formed market town, especially as it’s nestled in a picture perfect spot at the top of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, close to the Welsh border. Lots of lovely bookshops and a world-famous annual literary festival mean Hay-on-Wye is known as the town of books, but with medieval town walls, a popular market, and a gently flowing river that’s perfect for canoeing, there’s so much more to discover during a visit. 

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

We have compiled some of the best things to do in Hay-on-Wye during your next short break or holiday to the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons).

Skip to:

The Hay Festival

Hay-on-Wye bookshops

Shopping in Hay-on-Wye

Things to do

Hay-on-Wye cafes and restaurants

Hay-on-Wye pubs

Hay-on-Wye walks

Where to stay in Hay-on-Wye

The Hay Festival 

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

Once described by Bill Clinton as a ‘Woodstock for the mind’ The Hay Festival has become one the world’s leading art and literature events. Each year, authors, poets, philosophers and historians flock to Hay-on-Wye to hold workshops and give talks to legions of avid readers. 

Typically more than 100,000 people attend the annual event which has long grown out of the pub car park where it was originally held and now takes place in a series of specially constructed marquees at the edge of Hay-on-Wye. A green field at the centre of the tented village is strewn with deck chairs for visitors to relax in and there is an assortment of cafes and pubs where you can catch up with the speakers between sessions. 

Hay-on-Wye bookshops

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

You can’t come to Hay-on-Wye without taking a mooch around some of its magnificent bookshops; almost unbelievably, there are around 30 of them dotted around the town. Whether you’re looking for vintage classics, fancy stocking up on some new upcoming authors or want to seek out a rare hidden treasure, you’ll find it in Hay-on-Wye. Here are some of our favourite bookshops to visit:

Richard Booth’s Bookshop

Row upon row of chunky wooden shelves in this characterful building are filled with thousands of second-hand books with comfy seating where you can sit and read them. Regular events are held amongst the eaves of the pitched roof studio room and there’s also an on-site cafe where you can stop for refreshments. Richard Booth’s Bookshop is where the title 'town of books' all started, so it is well worth stopping by.

Addyman’s Books

This treasure trove of English literature classics and modern first editions started life back in 1987 in a room of the Blue Boar Inn. It’s since moved into a lovely shop on Lion Street and is a great place for seeking out rare novels and out-of-print books. Across the road, you’ll find the Addyman’s second store - a small bookshop called Murder and Mayhem that specialises in detective fiction. 

Hay Cinema Bookshop

What was once the cinema in Hay-on-Wye has been transformed into a book shop that’s so large that maps are available at the counter to help you find your way around. Lots of the books at Hay Cinema are surplus stocks from publishers so there are plenty of bargains to be had, and friendly staff are on hand to help you find any titles you are interested in.

Honesty Bookshop

The wonderful Honesty Bookshop is actually more like a collection of shelves that have been built onto the historic fortified walls of Hay Castle. The shelves are available to browse 24/7 and, as the name implies, there is an honesty box where you can pay for any titles you choose to take.  

Shopping in Hay-on-Wye

Image credit: abcbritain


Aside from the many bookshops, there are lots more places to shop in Hay-on-Way if you fancy indulging in a spot of retail therapy.

Hay-on-Wye Market

There has been a market in Hay for more than 700 years and, each Thursday, visitors can browse around 50 stalls selling everything from local artisan food to crafts and clothing. The main hub of the market is centred around Memorial Square, which has the backdrop of the majestic Hay Castle, but there is also a selection of indoor stalls within the historic Butter Market and Cheese Market Halls. 

Eighteen Rabbit

This quirkily named independent shop specialises in selling Fairtrade items and environmentally friendly pieces made by small-scale businesses and talented craftspeople from around the world. There is lots of ethical clothing, jewellery and homeware to browse in the store, with all items carefully handpicked by the Eighteen Rabbit team. 

Satori Designs and Otherworldz

This pair of independently owned Hay-on-Way gift stores are both well worth visiting - you’ll find all sorts of interesting items hidden inside. Satori Designs sells crystals, healing bracelets, incense, candles and Welsh Green Man items while Otherworldz stocks a range of colourful clothing and fun festival items. 

Hay Deli

Stock up on artisan Welsh meats and cheeses, freshly baked bread, organic vegetables and local ciders at the Hay Deli, a food store that’s based on Lion Street. There’s also a wide range of wine, teas, coffees, chocolates, sauces and chutneys - many of which are sourced from small-scale Welsh producers. 

Antique shops

As you would expect from such a historic market town, there is also a good selection of antique shops where you can find all sorts of vintage items and one-of-a-kind pieces. Our favourite stores include Hay Antique Market, Bull Ring Antiques, Timeless Treasures and Fleur de Lys Antiques and Collectables.  

Hay-on-Wye cafes and restaurants

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

You’ll find vegan dishes, flavours from around the world, home-made ice cream and local seasonal produce on the menu at these Hay-on-Wye eateries:


The regularly changing set menu at Chapters celebrates the best local seasonal produce in a selection of inventive and elegantly crafted dishes. This lovely Hay-on-Wye restaurant is located just off the town’s market square and is a perfect choice for a romantic dinner or an evening outing with friends.   

The Salad Project

 The Salad Project is a wonderful vegetarian and vegan restaurant selling daily specials such as falafels, curries and Mexican food served with a variety of sauces, breads and loads of tasty salad. The healthy, freshly prepared food is just right for lunch - especially as there is no need to feel guilty afterwards.

Tomatitos Tapas Bar

Spanish flavours and Welsh produce are beautifully combined in a series of small and very tasty dishes at Tomatitos Tapas Bar in Hay-on-Wye. There’s a pretty garden at this bar and restaurant which even includes a shelter from the rain and a relaxed ambience whether you’re calling in for food or drinks.

Shepherds Parlour

Shepherds Parlour is an ice cream parlour, coffee shop and cafe all rolled into one, serving toasted sandwiches using local baker Alex Gooch’s sourdough bread, daily home-made soup of the day and freshly brewed coffee. You can’t visit though without sampling their signature sheep’s milk ice cream which comes in 16 different flavours.

The Bean Box

This tiny shack is located on the edge of the River Wye with outdoor seating so you can enjoy a scenic coffee and cake when the weather is sunny. It’s a perfect spot to sit and watch the boats go by and there is a selection of Welsh specialities to enjoy including traditional bara brith.  

Pubs in Hay-on-Wye

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

Whether you fancy an evening out with your other half, catching up with friends in front of a roaring log fire or immersing yourself into local life, here are some of the Hay-on-Wye pubs to call in for a drink (or two).

The Blue Boar

If you’re looking for a characterful pub that’s full of original features and cosy snugs, The Blue Boar is the place for you. Enjoy a peaceful pint and a good book in front of the fire with a four-legged friend relaxing by your side at this lovely dog-friendly pub on Castle Street.  

The Old Black Lion

This historic 17th-century coaching inn is located just a stone’s throw from Hay-on-Wye’s ancient medieval walls and is reputed to be where Oliver Cromwell stayed while Hay Castle was besieged by his roundheads. Regular jazz nights are held at the Old Black Lion and you can enjoy a selection of local ales and ciders in the charming bar.

Three Tuns

The oldest pub in Hay-on-Wye, the Three Tuns dates back to the 16th century and the gorgeous Grade II-listed timber building contains lots of original features such as a large inglenook chimney and dog-leg staircase. A roaring fire warms the cosy bar area during winter and there’s a lovely beer garden for al fresco drinks in the warmer summer months.

Things to do in Hay-on-Wye

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

With a wonderful combination of culture and countryside, there are lots of things to do during a getaway to Hay-on-Wye:

The Globe at Hay

A hub for creativity and community events, The Globe at Hay is an independent arts centre where you can find anything from regularly changing exhibitions to open mic nights and theatre shows. There’s also talks, classes and an on-site bar where you can relax with a locally brewed beer or a cocktail.

The Warren

This beautiful riverside meadow is one of Hay-on-Wye’s hidden gems and a perfect spot for either a family picnic, an outdoor game, a paddle or even a swim in the river. The Warren has been used for recreational purposes by generations of people and was specially purchased by the residents of Hay-on-Wye during the 1970s to prevent the land ever being developed on.

Canoeing and kayaking 

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

Canoeing or kayaking along the River Wye is an exhilarating outdoor activity and you’ll pass through stunning Welsh countryside as you make your way through the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. The river is easily accessible from Hay-on-Wye with both boat hire and guided half and full-day canoe tours available. A typical route to the nearby village of Glasbury, which is about 5 miles along the river, will take about 2 hours paddling each way. 

Hay Castle

Currently undergoing a major renovation project, Hay Castle is a grand medieval fortress that is located right in the heart of Hay-on-Wye with a collection of charming shops housed on a cobbled courtyard. Parts of the building date back to Norman, Victorian and Jacobean eras and the current work will transform the castle into a centre for arts and culture in this wonderful book town.  


Bike hire is available from Drover Cycles in Hay-on-Wye and there’s lots of scenic cycling to try in the surrounding Welsh countryside. A popular  Bannau Brycheiniog cycling route to try is along the Gospel Pass which winds through the Black Mountains and, at its peak, is the highest road in Wales. There are also lots of off-road trails through the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park and Drover Cycles can give lots of advice and information to help you select the best route and cycle for your needs.


The Bannau Brycheiniog National Park is one of only a few places in the UK to hold International Dark Sky Reserve status and, on a clear night, you can spot meteor showers, twinkling stars and the wondrous spectacle of the Milky Way. One of the best places in the Bannau Brycheiniog to go stargazing is Hay Bluff where you can park up and find a peaceful spot to make the most of the sheltered night sky. 

Hay-on-Wye walks

Hay-on-Wye guide - Brecon Beacons

With two long-distance walking routes that pass through Hay-on-Wye and the peaks of the Black Mountains just a few miles away, you’ll find plenty of walking options on your visit to the town town:

Bailey Walk

If you’re looking for an easy-going walk that’s just right for families, we recommend taking a 1.5-mile stroll along the banks of the River Wye to nearby beauty spot The Warren where you can relax with a picnic or enjoy a paddle in the river before heading back to town.

Offa’s Dyke Walk

Offa’s Dyke is a 177-mile National Trail path that passes through Hay-on-Wye as it weaves along the Welsh border. Serious hikers can follow the Offa’s Dyke Path to the beautiful and remote Llanthony Priory which is around 12 miles away. Alternatively, you can follow a more manageable circular Offa’s Dyke route that takes in Hay Common and Wren Wood Ridge. 

Black Hill and Hay Bluff

Hay Bluff and Black Hill are two of the most prominent hills in the Black Mountains and you can tackle them both in a 7.7-mile walk from the Standing Stones car park which is just south of Hay-on-Wye. The climbs aren’t too strenuous so can be tackled by anyone with moderate fitness and there are pretty streams, wonderful waterfalls and gorgeous views of the Bannau Brycheiniog throughout the circular walk.

Wye Valley Walk

The Wye Valley is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and you can follow riverside pathways through undulating meadows, open fields and woodland as part of the 136-mile Wye Valley walk which passes through Hay-on-Wye. We recommend either walking to the village of Lowes which is around 3 miles away or extending it further to Glasbury which is around 7.5 miles away.

Where to stay in Hay-on-Wye

Here is just a small selection of the Hay-on-Wye cottages available if you fancy visiting this historic Welsh market town:

Lower Moor Lodge | Sleeps: 4 guests + 2 dogs

Hay-on-Wye cottages - Brecon Beacons

Immerse yourself in the rich history of Hay-on-Wye with a stay at this characterful former gatehouse which has gorgeous views of the Wye Valley from a lovely large garden.

Hay House | Sleeps: 6 guests + 2 dogs

Hay-on-Wye cottages - Brecon Beacons

This contemporary detached holiday home is located on the edge of Hay-on-Wye and is perfect for either a family holiday to the area or a trip with friends to the annual Hay Festival.

Whether you’re planning to visit Hay-on-Wye for a romantic break or for a dog-friendly family adventure in the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, you’ll find lots of lovely holiday cottages where you can rest your head. Browse our full collection to find your perfect base.


Disclaimer: Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of writing, please ensure you check carefully before making any decisions based on the contents within this article.

Like it? Share it...

Read more like this

The best and quirkiest hot tub retreats in the Brecon Beacons

Ahead of National Hot Tub Day on March 28th, we’ve rounded up our top 8 holiday cottages in the Brecon Beacons with hot tubs. From quirky hot tubs shaped like teacups to hot tubs where you can relax in the water with a spectacular view across the national park, you’ll find them all in our guide.

Brecon Beacons Food and Drink

From gin aged in Welsh caves and apple juice with the royal seal of approval there’s an abundance of local food and drink across the Brecon Beacons.

Winter and Christmas in the Brecon Beacons

Winter is a magical time in the Brecon Beacons so we have compiled all the best things to do and Christmas events to visit during your Welsh winter getaway.
The Travel Chapter Limited trading as Brecon Beacons Holiday Cottages is an appointed representative of ITC Compliance Limited which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (their registration number is 313486) and which is permitted to advise on and arrange general insurance contracts as an intermediary.
The Travel Chapter Limited trading as Brecon Beacons Holiday Cottages | The Travel Chapter Limited is registered in England and Wales. | Registered office Travel Chapter House Gammaton Road Bideford EX39 4DF Company No. 02431506 | VAT reg: 143053210.